Friday, December 2, 2011

"And Apple Strudel for Finally"

The title of this episode is credited to a favourite waiter of ours from Austria, who arrived bearing the best apple strudel we have ever tasted (and we have tasted a few!)

Salzburg, Austria


An overall theme from our time in Europe has been the friendliness of the European people. On at least three occasions we have attempted to jettison some excess luggage in public areas (books, glasses cases, snorkels etc) only to turn around and find a helpful person running along behind us waving our neglected item. Of course we then feel too embarrassed to tell the truth, so we accept gratefully and are lumped with the unwanted item again.


Last sighting of book, for now..

On another occasion, we attempt to kill a couple of hours in a train station over a long lunch at Burger King (oxymoron?). We strike up a conversation with a couple next to us, and before long Oli finds himself examining Hans' sore knee. It turned out Hans had a bad case of pre-patellar bursitis, and is very happy to avoid a trip to the local doctor. Hans and Regina are "proud to have met us" and invite us to stay with them at their farm whenever we are in Austria. They give us the addresses of themselves, and their parents in case we have trouble finding them.


Anyway, we digress, back to Prague, the beer drinking capital of Europe...


Arriving in Prague at night, the sight of the Charles bridge and the castle all lit up is spectacular. If we thought Amsterdam was cold, we were in for a rude shock in Prague.

Charles Bridge and Castle by night

Over the course of four days we did not catch a glimpse of sun, and the mercury never came close to troubling double digits. Our puffer jackets become a permanent fixture, but we gamely venture out for short sight seeing bursts, interspersed with regular stops in pubs and restaurants. It is easy to see why the Prague locals drink so much beer! We find a food market in a nearby square and enjoy local delicacies such as our favourite, the fried smoked cheese sandwich.

Charles Bridge by day 

Selfie on Charles 

And again, Charles. Cold.  

Hot snacks, icy night. 


From Prague we head to Salzburg, Austria. The main attraction of this stop is the fact that one of Sarah's favourite movies, the Sound of Music (SOM) was filmed here. After some research, including a screening of the film (Oli had yet to see it), we embark on a SOM tour. The tour takes in all the main sights of Salzburg including some of the more famous filming locations. Cheesy, but fun and informative the tour gives a good oversight of Salzburg and includes enforced sing-alongs to the film sound track.

Lake and castle used in SOM

 Gazebo from SOM

Scenic scenery

Sarah doing her best Julie Andrews


Aside from the SOM, Salzburg is actually a very attractive little town and we are glad to have stopped here. We find a hilly walking track around the town, affording great views. We are told rumours of an abbey where one can hear the nuns singing at vespers each day at 5pm and we seek this out. We wait in the cold and impending gloom but the closest we come to any vesper is a scooter rider zooming past.

Abbey where SOM was filmed 

The only nuns we could find...


We leave cursing the nuns and find ourselves a pub serving beer from ceramic mugs - a happy consolation prize. We spot a large number of locals wearing the traditional lederhosen and wonder if it is a fancy dress night. We are surprised to learn that this is in fact fashionable and is seen as a symbol of national pride.

Salzburg at dusk 


Our next stop in Austria is Innsbruck, a ski town in the Alps, about two hours out of Salzburg. We had come here hoping for some snow, and would have been in luck most other years. Instead we strike unseasonably warm sunshine. Most things in Innsbruck seem to be closed for repairs for the upcoming ski season, but we spend a pleasant couple of days exploring the town and enjoying the fresh mountain air.

 Innsbruck 

Note the lack of snow

Heading in for a dip


The train from Salzburg to Ljubljana is one of the most spectacular journeys we have done. We pass through the Austrian Alps, over valleys filled with fog and through tiny ski towns. We resolve to return for a ski trip one day!

 Comfortable bed for a rest

 Austrian Dog

Ljubljana, where is everyone??


Ljubljana is the penultimate stop on the European leg of our journey and is on the list due to some rave reviews from friends.
We are staying in a beautiful hotel in the heart of the old town. This is lucky because a freezing fog settles over the city on our first evening and barely lifts. The temperature is around -2deg for most of the day.

 Dreary Ljubljana

Rare moments of sunshine 

Arty

Our favourite day is a visit to a nearby town on the shores of Lake Bled, which is often lauded as one of the most beautiful lakes in Europe. On this day it lived up to its reputation, with the sun shining we spend a day walking the 6km around the lake.

Castle on island in Lake Bled

I had to run fast for this shot... 

As close as we came to snow 

 Autumn, Lake Bled

Our final stop in Europe is Venice. We decided to return here as we had liked it so much 4 years ago.  The fog is a recurring theme here, but it just adds another layer of mystery to the already murky canals. We have a hotel room with windows opening directly onto a canal, and enjoy the sounds of the passing gondoliers playing the accordion and singing Frank Sinatra classics in Italian. We spend a couple of days wandering the canals, getting lost and exploring until it is time for our next meal.

 Trial run wedding

Our hotel is bottom left of photo

 Foggy Venice, not good for gondoliering 

Spot Sarah 

Classic Venice

After a mere three weeks of cold weather, we are excited about the prospect of ditching our puffer jackets and flying to Thailand!


Phi Phi Island 

Storm coming

We split our 8 days in Thailand between Phi Phi Island and Karon beach, Phuket. We try to do as little as possible, and spend our time on the beach or by the pool topping up our tan. We have foot massages in the evenings after dinner and shop for cheap clothes in the markets. We are completely relaxed, and glad to end our trip on such a high note.


The pool outside our hotel room 

After 13 flights, 32 hotels/apartments/B&Bs, 87 delicious (mostly) dinners, 28 books, a few extra kilos (not all in our packs), 1 diamond ring, and innumerable amazing experiences it is time to fly back to Australia. It has been the trip of a lifetime!

Goodbye! 


We are excited about the upcoming month in Australia, and looking forward to the next chapter of our lives starting in NZ in the new year!

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

The Cold Lands


It would be hard to think of two more contrasting places than Fes and Paris, and we are both excited and relieved to be returning to Europe. 

We land at Paris Beauvais airport, about 100km from Paris centre itself. On the shuttle ride in Oli catches his first glimpse of the Eiffel tower at night - a magical sight! 

Eiffel Tower at night

Coincidentally the taxi driver is from Morocco, and takes great pleasure in playing us some tunes from back home on the otherwise peaceful ride in….

Paris is the first stop in the 'Cold Part' of our trip - this is how we have been referring to the forthcoming 3 weeks while we have been swanning around the sunnier parts of Europe. 
We expect Paris to be cold, but our first day dawns blue skied and warm. A perfect day for exploring  Paris on foot, we set off on a mammoth walking mission including all the major sights of the city. 

The Arc - right next to our hotel 

A beautiful day for walking down the Champs Elysees

We tick off the Champs Elysees, the Notre Dame, and the Louvre. A German student sells us her tickets at a discounted rate after she had left early, and we manage to skip the queue to the Louvre. This saves us at least an hour and 10 euro. We put in a valiant effort at the Louvre, but aside from seeing the Mona Lisa we struggle to get excited about the no doubt fabulous art displayed. 

We preferred the outside...

Our walking route takes us down through St. Germain and we come upon the Eiffel tower just as dusk is approaching. A great time for photos, we watch the lights come on and resolve to climb the tower the next day. 

Sadly the following day dawns rainy and cold. Undaunted, as this was more seasonal, we head out for our second sightseeing day, focussing more on food, shopping and this time use the metro to get around. 

Rainy day Sacre Coeur

Best to stay tucked inside bookshops like these

All in all, 3 fantastic days in Paris. So much to do and barely able to scratch the surface, but we will no doubt return soon!

From Paris we take a train to Brussels and from there on to Bruges. Oli's godmother, Teresa has come down from London to meet us and spend a couple of days together in Bruges. 

Bruges by night

And by day...

Just like the movie really, the town is almost too picturesque. We spend a fun day doing the proper tourist thing and enjoy a canal tour, a chocolate factory tour, and we even climb the city tower (which was overrated). The highlight is hiring some bikes and riding to the nearby village of Damme, which is possibly even better looking than Bruges! 

Biking in Bruges

 Heading out to Damme

Damme pretty

The food and beer in Bruges was definitely something special, our favourite being the variations on Flemish stew. Three nights in Bruges pass easily and it was great to be able to see Teresa, albeit for such a short time.  

Autumn colours

Our next stop is Amsterdam, another short train ride away. This time Oli's aunt, Wendy, is flying from the UK to meet us for a couple of days. We have booked at the same hotel, the funky Citizen M.

I am sterdam

Amsterdam is cold and grey, but we enjoy a canal tour and wander around the streets of the Jordaan and the '9 streets' shopping district. We have a couple of excellent meals with Wendy and it is great to be able to catch up! 

Cold canals 

Houseboats on canal

We feel that being in Amsterdam we need to see some windmills and clogs, so we head out to nearby where they still have some functioning windmills and some extra large clogs to stand in. The day is grey and freezing and we are nearly the only tourists there, but they make a mean hot chocolate.

Chips to warm up 

So freezing right now 

Obligatory clog shot

Next stop, Prague, where they consume the highest volume of beer per capita in Europe.